Has the car been clocked...

Look at the mileometer carefully. If the numerals look like the spinning melons on a fruit machine, all out of alignment, or if they're at all scratched, suspect that they've been 'got at' by the scourge of the motor trade, the 'clocker'. Although the trade has done much in an attempt to stamp out the practice over recent years, winding back the mileage, or 'clocking' still goes on. Always ask yourself if the recorded mileage of a car is consistent with its overall condition.

Lift carpets and look for rust or damp. Look in the glove box, you may find some evidence of a service record. Look at wear to the boot and especially to the load area of estate cars which many people treat like builder's vans. Check to see that there's a spare wheel and a jack.

Under the bonnet look again for corrosion around the suspension mountings, the inner wings and the battery tray. Is the engine and engine bay clean ? Pull out the dipstick and check the oil level. Too much is as bad a sign as too little. Pull off the oil filler cap and look for white, foamy sludge which indicates water in the oil and gasket trouble. Check the radiator for water. Has it got anti-freeze in it? If tbe water is oily, suspect a blown gasket.

If the hydraulic fluid is low it indicates poor maintenance, or there could be a leak in the~ system. Are the battery terminals corroded Look at the battery fluid level and check the far belt for damage. You want to get as good an indication of the type of life the car has had, and whether it's been cared for or not. An engine bay which has been steam-cleaned should give you cause for concern. Check more carefully.

Once you've done all these checks and are happy that the car is worth bidding on, then the time to put a top value on it. Refer to the used-car price guide you have with you, confer with your colleagues and use your own judgement based on what you've seen other cars sell for at the auction. Decide how much you are willing to bid and make sure you stick to that decision.